Once natural stone is properly sealed, it’s protected from everyday spills. Instead of being absorbed into the stone, water and other spills will bead up on the surface. People often assume that natural stone is “stain-proof,” however all stone is porous to some degree. If not properly treated with a protective sealer, water, oils, or other liquids can penetrate the stone, leaving behind unwanted stains. Good news is that once treated with a protective sealer, natural stone is ready for carefree, everyday use. After fabrication we treat your countertops with a sealer to protect your stone from staining. For most countertops, a quick application of a stone sealer once every year will eliminate potential problems.
When cleaning up those messes and spills, it’s important to use cleaners specially formulated for stone. Most general purpose cleaners, acidic and alkaline solutions, abrasives, ammonia or bleach can break down sealers and damage stone surfaces. Some soapy cleaners may leave an unsightly film. Our daily revitalizing cleaners and heavy duty cleaners were carefully designed for stone, providing you with peace of mind. Our stone polish adds instant, touch-up shine to polished surfaces.
Water spots from hard water around a sink area are the most common issue with granite. These can simply be buffed out with dry 0000 steel wool. Stains are fairly uncommon with sealed natural stones and there are different recommendations for stain removal depending on the type of stain. There is a guide to granite stains on our website: www.stonesourceusa.com
As granite is one of the hardest, most durable materials available for countertops, it will not scratch when used as a cutting surface, but it will dull knives.
Granite and other natural stones are virtually impervious to damage from normal cooking temperatures. Placing a hot pot or pan directly on your stone countertops will not damage them.
Clean the countertop daily with a soft white cloth and a neutral cleaner or household detergent such as Dove. Household cleaning products including Windex, Lysol Disinfectant and 409 can Stone Source · be used, but may leave a film. A solution of vinegar and water works great to remove streaking, smudges, and body oil.
Granite countertops are sealed at the time of fabrication. Resealing is up to the individual. Manufacturers of impregnators recommend countertops to be resealed from three to every five years, or longer, depending on the application, the sensitivity of the individual, and the type of stone. Granite impregnators, cleaners and disinfectants are available here.
Spills should be wiped up immediately. Blot the spill with a clean paper towel. If the countertop stains, a poultice may need to be applied. See the Stain Removal guidelines that follow.
Use the flat side of a razor blade for removing stuck on tape residue, dried paint, glue, dried food, etc. Use #0000 or finer steel wool to remove dried water spots, smudges, hazy areas, and for general cleaning to bring out the shine. Do not use the steel wool wet. Use a pencil eraser to remove aluminum trails.
If you have stained your stone, don’t worry. Because stone is porous you can often remove the stain by reversing the staining process. Stains should be treated as soon as possible. As time goes by it becomes increasingly difficult to remove the stain; however, attempts to remove stains should not precede stain identification. Using the appropriate removal technique is important to achieve the desired results. You must ask questions to determine what the stain is:
● What is the color?
● Where is it located?
● How long has it been there?
● Is it associated with main traffic areas?
● Are plants near the stain? Etc…
Once the stain has been identified, the best method of removal can be determined.
If you reabsorb the stain into a medium, you can remove it from the stone. The typical medium is called a poultice. Clays, cornstarch and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Many stains are so deeply imbedded that a chemical solution will need to be added to the poultice to dilute and/or react with the stain. Test patches will need to be performed, and in many cases it will take several tests. The process can be simple: Mix poultice medium with distilled water, or the chemical you have selected, to make a paste-like substance with a consistency similar to peanut butter. Apply the paste to the stain and do not let any excess drip or spill onto adjacent clean areas. The paste should be applied approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick, overlapping the stain by 1/2 to 1 inch. Cover the area with plastic wrap and secure the edges down with non-marking tape. The poultice must dry completely. Drying time is usually 24 to 48 hours, depending on the type of poultice being used. As the poultice dries, it will pull the stain from the area into the paste. Remove the poultice using cotton balls, paper towels, or a fabric. If the stain has improved, re-apply the poultice. Multiple applications may be required.
Typical Stains:
ORGANIC: Coffee, Tea, Tobacco, Food, Cosmetics, Plant
INORGANIC: Rust, Iron, Bronze, Steel, Metal
BIOLOGICAL: Mildew, Mold, Fungus, Algae
OIL BASE: Grease, Cooking Oil, Food Stains, Tar, Body Oil
INK: Ball Point Pen or Magic Marker
Challenge: Iron Stains
Solution: Clean with one of the following:
● Naval Jelly
● Ammonium Oxalate
● Oxalic Acid
● Grout Concrete Film Remover
Challenge: Ink Stains
Solution: Poultice with one of the following:
● For light colors: Bleach or Hydrogen Peroxide
● For dark colors: Acetone or Lacquer Thinner
Challenge: Oil Based Stains
Solution: Clean with one of the following:
● Bleach
● Household Detergent
● Ammonia
● Mineral Spirits
Follow with a poultice of one of the following:
● Methyl Chloride
Challenge: Organic Stains
Solution: Clean with one of the following:
● 35% Hydrogen Peroxide. Pour directly on the stain and then add a few drops of
ammonia. Leave on until the bubbling stops.
Follow with a poultice using the same methods as suggested for an Oil Based Stain.
Challenge: Copper Stains
Solution: Poultice with one of the following:
● Ammonia Chloride
● Ammonia Hydroxide
Challenge: Biological Stains
Solution: Clean with one of the following:
● Diluted Ammonia
● Bleach
Challenge: Crystallization Coatings
Solution: Re-hone the surface with abrasives
When marble (referring to marble/limestone/travertine/onyx) is not treated with a protective sealer, water, oils, or other liquids can penetrate the stone, leaving behind unwanted stains. Once marble is properly sealed, it’s more protected from everyday spills. However, because marble is more porous than granite, it is still susceptible to staining. Spills and messes should be wiped up immediately to avoid penetration into the stone. Especially spills with vinegars & acidic items (tomatoes, lemons, etc.) and oils. Acidic items left on the surface can etch away the polish of the stone, regardless of the sealer. Water can also leave marks, so it is important to use coasters and other protective measures to keep any spills from seeping in. We seal your countertop once when we install, it may be necessary to seal a few more times until it no longer takes in any additional sealer.
When cleaning up those messes and spills, it’s important to use cleaners specially formulated for stone. Most general purpose cleaners, acidic and alkaline solutions, abrasives, ammonia, or bleach can break down sealers and damage stone surfaces, and marble is especially sensitive to acids. Some soapy cleaners may leave an unsightly film. Our daily revitalizing cleaners and heavy duty cleaners were carefully designed for stone, providing you with peace of mind. Our stone polish adds instant, touch-up shine to polished surfaces.
Marble is a porous stone, so it is susceptible to staining. Common stain producers, including acidic products like lemon, vinegar, and wine, can cause stains because they strip away the protective sealant that covers a marble countertop. Another stain-producing substance is cooking oil. Oil seeps through the pores of marble and stains countertops from the inside. Sealer will only protect the stone to a certain degree, and we do recommend that white stones be periodically sealed at first to ensure a thorough seal.
Excessive chopping, cutting, or dragging heavy appliances can heavily damage your marble countertop surface with numerous penetrating scratches.
Placing a hot pot or pan directly on your stone countertops will not usually damage them, but some materials with heavy veining can sometimes carry the effect of expansion and contraction at the vein which would cause them to fissure. This can easily be fixed or completely avoided with the use of a trivet.
Due to quartz’s high density and non-porous qualities, normal cleaning with a damp cloth and mild detergent is all you need to keep your quartz surface looking great. Thoroughly rinse off the soap/mild detergent with hot water after use and dry with a soft cloth or paper towel. To avoid dulling the surface shine, make sure to use a non-abrasive cleaner and thoroughly rinse off with water after use.
If needed, apply a generous amount of a non-abrasive gel, such as Soft Scrub Liquid Gel with Bleach, to a damp soft cloth or paper towel (not directly on the countertop). Wipe the area using a circular motion, then rinsing thoroughly with water and dry with a soft cloth or paper towel. We recommend a thorough cleaning of your quartz surface on a regular basis (because of the patina (natural film) that will develop on the surface from day-to-day use) to keep the surface as beautiful as the day it was installed.
Special Use for spot cleaning ONLY – Because of the abrasive nature of this cleaner, use Bar Keepers Friend only as follows: Place a small amount on damp cloth. Using very light pressure to wipe the area in a circular motion. Finish by rinsing thoroughly with warm water and dry with a soft cloth or paper towel.
To remove adhered material such as food, gum, or nail polish, first carefully scrape away the excess material with a plastic putty knife and then clean the surface with a damp cloth to remove any marks or residual dirt left behind. Also, do not use any abrasive pads to clean tough dirt, as abrasives can damage the finish/sheen of your countertops. Please note that honed or specialty finishes require more cleaning than our polished finishes. Metal marks, fingerprints and other signs of daily living will be more visible on honed material. Most of these marks can be easily removed with non-abrasive cleaning products such as Soft Scrub Liquid Gel.
Prolonged exposure to cleaning solutions may cause permanent damage/discoloration to the countertop surface. Avoid exposing quartz to chemicals, such as oven grill cleaners, floor strippers, paint removers/strippers, toilet bowl cleaners, oil soaps, tarnish removers, furniture cleaners, drain products, battery acid, dishwasher detergent, etc. Should your surface accidentally be exposed to any potentially damaging products, rinse immediately with water to neutralize the effect.
Quartz can potentially be damaged by sudden and rapid temperature changes, especially near the edges. Using trivets is always recommended, especially when using cooking units such as electric frying pans, crock pots, or toaster ovens. Do not put hot cookware directly on the quartz surface.
Tough, yes – Indestructible, No. Quartz is resistant to cracks, scratches and stains. However, like most materials, excessive force and/or pressure from objects can damage the surface. As with any surface, quartz can be permanently damaged by exposure to strong chemicals and solvents. Avoid using sharp objects such as sharp knives or screwdrivers directly on the surface. The use of a cutting board is always recommended. Following these basic guidelines and procedures, and using products designed exclusively for stone, will help preserve the natural beauty of your investment. Stone Source is always available to provide advice on any of your stone needs. For more detailed information, visit HERE.
No material provides the enduring elegance of natural stone. Natural stone countertops offer a lifetime of lasting beauty with minimal care and maintenance.
Once natural stone is properly sealed, it can help protect from everyday spills. Instead of being absorbed into the stone, water and other spills can bead up on the surface for a time before soaking in and staining. People often assume that natural stone is “stain-proof,” however all stone is porous. After fabrication we treat your countertops with one coat of sealer.
When cleaning up those messes and spills, it’s important to use cleaners specially formulated for stone. Most general purpose cleaners, acidic and alkaline solutions, abrasives, ammonia or bleach can break down sealers and damage stone surfaces. Some soapy cleaners may leave an unsightly film. Our daily revitalizing cleaners and heavy duty cleaners were carefully designed for stone, providing you with peace of mind. Our stone polish adds instant, touch-up shine to polished surfaces.
Water spots from hard water around a sink area are the most common issue with stone. These can simply be buffed out with dry 0000 steel wool. Stains are fairly uncommon with sealed natural stones and there are different recommendations for stain removal depending on the type of stain.
Granite, Quartzite and other natural stones are virtually impervious to damage from normal cooking temperatures. Following these basic guidelines and procedures, and using products designed exclusively for stone, will help preserve the natural beauty of your investment. Stone Source is always available to provide advice on any of your stone needs. For more detailed information, visit HERE
Prolonged exposure to cleaning solutions may cause permanent damage/discoloration to the countertop surface. Avoid exposing quartz to chemicals, such as oven grill cleaners, floor strippers, paint removers/strippers, toilet bowl cleaners, oil soaps, tarnish removers, furniture cleaners, drain products, battery acid, dishwasher detergent, etc. Should your surface accidentally be exposed to any potentially damaging products, rinse immediately with water to neutralize the effect.
Quartz can potentially be damaged by sudden and rapid temperature changes, especially near the edges. Using trivets is always recommended, especially when using cooking units such as electric frying pans, crock pots, or toaster ovens. Do not put hot cookware directly on the quartz surface.
Tough, yes – Indestructible, No. Quartz is resistant to cracks, scratches and stains. However, like most materials, excessive force and/or pressure from objects can damage the surface. As with any surface, quartz can be permanently damaged by exposure to strong chemicals and solvents. Avoid using sharp objects such as sharp knives or screwdrivers directly on the surface. The use of a cutting board is always recommended. Following these basic guidelines and procedures, and using products designed exclusively for stone, will help preserve the natural beauty of your investment. Stone Source is always available to provide advice on any of your stone needs. For more detailed information, visit HERE.
Coating with sealers and/or impregnators is required to minimize stains and scratches. Sealers are protective coatings. Impregnators penetrate below the surface and become repellents. Impregnators are usually water repelling but are also oil repelling. Impregnators keep contaminants out but do not stop interior moisture from escaping.
Vacuum or sweep the area first, then dust mop interior floors frequently using a clean, non-treated, dry dust mop. Periodic maintenance involves mopping with clean, potable water and neutral and mildly abrasive (pH 7) cleaners. Soap-less cleaners are recommended because they minimize filming and streaking.
Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about ½ cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or overuse of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.
Blot up the spill with a paper towel immediately. Flush the area with water & mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth.
Oil based (grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, & food stains): Clean with scouring powder with bleach, liquid cleanser with bleach, household detergent, ammonia, or mineral spirits (flammable).
Organic (tea, coffee, cosmetics, fruit, tobacco, & urine): Clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain and add a few drops of ammonia. Leave until bubbling stops.
Copper & Metal: Use poultice with ammonium chloride or ammonium hydroxide.
Biological (mildew, algae, lichens, moss, & fungi): Clean with dilute ammonia (1/2 cup in a gallon of water), bleach, or hydrogen peroxide.
Efflorescence (white powdery layer of film on surface of travertine): If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. Repeat as necessary as the stone dries out. If the problem persists use the poultice with distilled water or contact the contractor to identify and remove the cause of the moisture.
DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA. Do not ever mix chemicals together unless following instructions specifically directing you to do so.
DO NOT USE lemon juice, vinegar or other cleansers containing acids such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners.
CALL A PROFESSIONAL STONE RESTORER FOR REFINISHING OR REHONING THE STAINED AREAS THAT YOU CANNOT REMOVE
Note: Directly bonding glass tiles to wood substrates is not recommended. Setting surface should be clean and free of dust, oil, grease, paint, tar, wax, curing agent, primer, sealer, adhesive residue, form release agent or any other residue or debris which may prevent or reduce adhesion. We recommend any high grade flexible mortar system (latex modified) as a setting material for mosaic glass tiles, For grouts, a premium polymer-modified unsanded grout for joints from 1/16”(1.5mm) to 1/8”(3mm)wide. For grout lines larger than 1/8” (3mm) wide use sanded grout.
NOTE: Ensure a qualified electrician carries out all the electrical work around the metal mosaics. Make sure that the grain of the stainless steel is going in the right direction. If not, the sheet will appear to be different colors. The fixing surface must be clean and even. Apply the proper adhesive with a straight edge of the trowel. Do not apply more than 15 square feet at a time. Rake adhesive with notched edge of the trowel. Press down so the teeth contact the fixing surface, ensuring a uniform thickness of the adhesive. Set the sheet, ensuring the mosaic is facing the right direction. Allow the sheet to set in the adhesive for 24 hours. Use specific filler to process the joints. Allow the filler to dry for 15 minutes. Clean the sheet and remove the haze.
▪ For most dirt and stains, use a mild soap and water.
▪ For fingerprints and watermarks, use pure olive oil or alcohol.
▪ For difficult stains, use an abrasive cleanser and a new, non-scratching pad.
▪ For disinfecting, wipe surface with diluted household bleach (1 part water, 1 part bleach).
▪ For removing scratches, sand with 180 or 320 grit fine sandpaper until the cut has disappeared.
▪ DO NOT allow liquid soap and household cleaners to dry on the surface of the metal, chemical additives may affect the original luster. DO NOT leave standing solutions of chlorine bleach and water on the surface for an extended period of time, chlorides are aggressive on stainless steel. DO NOT use a steel wool pad to clean the mosaic sheers. If a more abrasive product is needed, use a non scratching pad, being sure to run in the direction of the grain lines. Steel wool pads have a tendency to break apart and small particles of stainless steel can become embedded in the surfaces of the mosaic – and those particles will rust. DO NOT allow food/beverage residue, or metal canned products to remain on the surface. DO NOT set hot pans directly on the metal sheets. DO NOT use any strong acids or alkali products on the metal surface.
It is strongly recommended to use white setting materials for installing glass mosaic, otherwise lighter colors may appear darker. Read and follow adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Material should be mixed to a consistency that holds mosaic sheets in place. Spread the mix evenly onto surface in the area of one square (4 or 9 sheets) using the notched side of a 3/16”x5/32”x3/16”V-notched trowel. (note: The use of a larger size notched trowel will result in excess setting material in the grout joints). Using the flat side of the trowel, smooth out all ridges to achieve a consistent, even 1/8”thick coverage. Do not attempt to cover too large of an area to avoid skinning of setting material. Apply glass mosaics sheets, mesh-side down, firmly into the freshly troweled setting material. Note : It is critical to keep the joint spacing consistent between rows of mosaic. It will be necessary to cut mesh to adjust individual tiles or entire rows. Using a rubber float or equivalent tool, gently press the tile into the adhesive to insure complete contact. Do not push the sheets too deeply into the setting materials, as to cause the setting materials to ooze up between the spaces between the tile, we recommend leaving at least 2/3 of the tile depth available for grouting. Adjust tile sheets for correct alignment and even spacing between sheets. Do not allow setting material to dry or skin over before completing this process. Clean all excess setting materials with a damp sponge. Wipe away any haze that may have remained behind. Allow setting material to cure for 24 hours before grouting.
Use modified grouts (unsanded, sanded or epoxy) compatible with the setting materials. Read and follow grout manufacturers’ instructions. Spread grout with a rubber float in horizontal and vertical directions. Remove excess grout with rubber float in a diagonal direction. Clean excess with a damp sponge and polish off any remaining haze with a dry cloth or towel. Follow grout manufacturers recommended cleaning procedures. After grouting, protect area from light foot traffic and light water exposure for at least 72 hours. Protect area from heavy traffic and regular use for at least 7 days.
After all materials have properly cured, mosaic may be cleaned with a glass cleaner and/or neutral mild detergent and water.
It is strongly recommended to use white setting materials for installing glass mosaic, otherwise lighter colors may appear darker. Read and follow adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Material should be mixed to a consistency that holds mosaic sheets in place. Using the flat edge of the trowel spread the mix evenly onto surface in the area of one square (4 or 9 sheets). With the notched edge of the trowel min. (note: The use of a larger size notched trowel will result in excess setting material in the grout joints). Do not attempt to cover too large of an area to avoid skinning of setting material. Apply mosaic sheets with the front mounted paper facing the installer. Keep the lines on the paper running in the same direction. Note: It is critical to keep the joint spacing consistent between rows of mosaic. Embed tile with a seating block or rubber float to ensure adequate adhesion. After completing the next square 4 or 9 sheets (20 to 30 minutes later), return to previously set sheet, and with a wet sponge begin to dampen mounting paper. Repeat the dampening process until paper loosens. Starting at a corner, carefully remove wet paper by pulling close diagonally across the sheet. Make any adjustments to mosaic with a trowel at this time. Repeat process until setting is complete. Allow setting material to cure for 24 hours before grouting.
Use modified grouts (unsanded, sanded or epoxy) compatible with the setting materials. Read and follow grout manufacturers’ instructions. If paper face mounted mosaic were installed, clean tiles thoroughly of any residual glue left from mounting paper before grouting. Spread grout with a rubber float in horizontal and vertical directions. Remove excess grout with rubber float in a diagonal direction. Clean excess with a damp sponge and polish off any remaining haze with a dry cloth or towel. Follow grout manufacturers recommended cleaning procedures. After grouting, protect area from light foot traffic and light water exposure for at least 72 hours. Protect area from heavy traffic and regular use for at least 7 days.
After all materials have properly cured, mosaic may be cleaned with a glass cleaner and/or neutral mild detergent and water.
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Stone Source opened in 2004 to provide the Midwest with quality natural stones at an affordable price to the public and the trade.
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